Below Artemonas, on the rocky eastern coast of Sifnos, Verina Astra is built into the hillside in a scattering of whitewashed buildings. Stone walls, reed pergolas and terraces follow the slope towards the sea, giving the hotel the feel of a small settlement rather than a single building. Directly below, the chapel of Poulati stands on a rocky outcrop above the water, with a coastal path leading from here to Kastro. Much of the building material comes from the island itself, including the dry-stone walls and the smooth grey Sifnian stone used in some of the bathrooms.

Inside, the sixteen rooms and suites are named after constellations and keep to a pared-back palette of limewashed walls, built-in plaster benches, stone floors, linen and rattan. The original rooms retain their small pastel-coloured windows and shutters, while the larger suites open onto long, shaded verandas. A handful have private pools, and some look straight out across the Aegean. The saltwater infinity pool sits right at the edge of the cliff, its blue almost indistinguishable from the sea below, with rattan parasols and deep-cushioned loungers. There is also a small Elemis spa, while the minibar comes stocked with ready-mixed cocktails for evenings on the veranda.

Sifnos has a serious food culture, and Bostani draws much of its character from the island. Vegetables and herbs come from the hotel's garden, fish from local fishermen and meat from nearby farms. The menu changes with the seasons and whatever looks good at the market. Breakfast brings omelettes with garden vegetables, poached eggs on brioche and pancakes with walnuts and thyme honey. At dinner, ask for one of the five tables along the edge of the terrace, where the views stretch across the sea.

The island is best explored slowly. Sifnos has a long pottery tradition, and the hotel can arrange a visit to the workshop that made its own ceramics, as well as cookery classes on a nearby farm, horse riding and diving. Walking trails connect monasteries, ancient towers and whitewashed villages. Kastro, perched on its rocky promontory, is particularly worth a visit, as are the neoclassical streets and bakeries of Artemonas. In the tavernas, look for chickpea stew, local goat's cheese and slow-roasted lamb; for fish, head to Omega3. There is no airport on Sifnos, which helps preserve its unhurried character. Ferries connect the island with Piraeus and neighbouring Cyclades, including Milos and Serifos. Verina Astra is open from May to mid-October and welcomes children from twelve years old.